The end of the war

After leaving the WWII museum at 6-ish, we trudged along the waterfront in the night, both of us totally exhausted from living through the war in a single afternoon. (And physically worn out from the concrete floors!)

We are both museum readers (take that, Yesh!) and so we had lots of facts swirling around in our heads, and lots of pictures and uniforms and armaments and bomb shelters and just too many personal items of long dead people that needed to be organized and compartmentalized and considered... and hopefully forgotten.

And the temp had plunged and we only had pastries for lunch. So we were hungry...

We popped into a couple of restaurants looking for an empty table, and finally settled on Gdanski Bowke. Fabulous choice! Fantastic food, excellent service.

I had grilled chicken breast with peas and carrots (and something green mixed with my mashed potatoes). And Rebecca had a roast pork knuckle with mashed potatoes. We both had killer beers.

Then we stumbled home to dream of war.

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History of World War II

Our last stop of free museum day was the WWII History Museum. Housed in a really cool building within site of the water. This building rises 4 or 5 levels into the air with an entire wall of glass, so we were disappointed when we realized that the entire museum was underground on -3 level. Oh, how wrong we were!

Spreading out way beyond the footprint of the building above, this museum strives to educate visitors about the political climate in the entire world (including Japan) in the years leading up to the war, before introducing the first battle of the war (which happened just outside of Gdańsk).

So we learn about the rise of totalitarianism in Germany and Italy. We're shown how a socialist-leaning government in Spain is crushed by Franco. And we're shown how, far to the East, Russian Imperialism was crushed and ultimately replaced with with Communism -- a school of thought diametrically opposed to the ideals sweeping through Germany.

They then take us through the beginning of the war, the expansion of the Reich, relocation of the Jews into first the ghettos and then into the concentration camps, the battles, the ending of the war in Europe and the discovery of the camps, and postwar efforts toward normalization of life.

And they attempt this ambitious goal with such style! We walked through gallery after amazingly innovative gallery. Most of the time I was awestruck and didn't remember to take photos.

There were countless alcoves with videos playing with survivors speaking. There were walls of tin ID tags of slave workers. There were walls of headshots of people who died in camps. There was a tank in pristine new condition, and a tank staged in a bombed out cityscape

There were propaganda posters in countless languages aimed at audiences in every country in Europe. Those Nazi bastards were masters of marketing!

Sad fact: Poland experienced 5.7 million civilian casualties during the war.  

But by the last 20% of the war I was totally exhausted. Just as I experienced in Krakow, I reached a level of satiation where I just couldn't read one more horrible story. So I blew through the exhibits and sat outside the museum shop waiting for Rebecca.

So many people exiting were talking about how moving the museum is -- not only for the information presented, but the method of presentation as well.

This museum is a must-see in Gdańsk!

Free City of Danzig

The next stop was the "Free City of Danzig" Museum.

A grassroots style institution, it is housed in what would be a way cool apartment on the main street and limits its study to the period of 1920 to 1939, when Danzig (German name for Gdańsk) was incorporated by the (incredibly punishing) Treaty of Versailles as a free zone -- belonging to neither Germany nor Poland.

The Free City of Danzig was basically a country unto itself, people being citizens of the Free City of Danzig, with passports and travels rights. All citizens were free and equal, and were protected by the treaty. In theory. The population was 90% German heritage, and 10% Polish heritage.

Versailles set out that Poland would have a right to military transport from the port at Danzig -- its only access to the sea. The treaty also stated that Poland would represent the Free City in international matters, and that Poland would have a Post Office in Gdańsk.

These are important points to note in order to understand future posts.

Gdańsk Free Museum Tuesday

Our first day in Gdańsk was luckily a "free museum Tuesday". Bonus!

We started at the City Hall museum. Much of the building was destroyed in the war, and has been painstakingly restored.

There is an external courtyard with some art, leading to the internal areas. We saw a lot of cool architectural elements, including a wood carved circular staircase entirely supported by the central column. I think besides the wood carvings, the most impressive aspects were the paintings on the ceilings and the incredible inlaid wood. There is a room of 20-inch tall gold beer steins from the 1690s.

The tower was closed the day we visited.

Quick and nice.

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Gdańsk Style 1

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Who is this guy, and why is he watching my apartment?  

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This is the Visitor Info Center  

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Detail from the Visitor Info Center  

Trip to Gdansk: First Night

The journey Warsaw to Gdansk was 3.25 hours, and it went by really quickly. At one point I had to pull out my shades because of the angle of the (thank heavens!) sun... but then it clouded back over to white...

The snow in the fields out the windows was definitely deeper than the snow we've experienced in Radom.

And then we almost missed our station in Gdansk, because there were no announcements in our car and only by chance I looked up from my crochet and noticed the Gdansk Glowny sign outside the window. It was a scramble to get off the train with all my shit before it was too late... but, whew!, we've arrived.

There's a 20 minute walk to our AirBNB, using Google maps, into the Old Town area near the water. Some of the streets we walk through are beautiful with old architecture and charm, and the apartment is wonderful and newly refurbished.

We head out into the night (not really, but when the sun goes down at 4:10....) for a quick walk along the water and notice how much construction is going on in this city.

The waterways are iced over, and ducks sit on the ice.

We find a nice craft beer spot (Cathead) and then hit Mandu for pierogi dinner (recommended by the AirBNB host and the bartender at Cathead). Deelish.

Pop into a grocery on the way back and we're in for the night.

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Cathead  

 

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The view from our living room  

Trip to Gdansk: Trains

My experience in Italy is that certain routes (for Example X city to Y city) might be all unassigned seating; while other routes have all assigned seating. Point being, either all seats are assigned at the time you buy your ticket, or no seats are assigned.

In Poland it seems that if you buy your ticket in advance -- especially online -- you can get assigned seats... but then there are other travelers who have tickets but NOT ASSIGNED SEATS. So, these travelers hang out in the vestibule after boarding until the train gets underway, and then they walk up and down the train, checking seats, and asking the conductors for suggestions. Seems very inefficient -- and frankly stressful for the person without an assignment.

Rebecca and I were not seated together, but only one row apart, and her Old Lady seatmate was almost frantic because she was trying to be on the train with her daughter, and I guess they had arrived separately and boarded separately, and she kept calling the daughter on the phone and saying "I'm in this car, where are you??"... and then she said to the daughter in English "Yes, come here, I have a good seat and the lady next to me is American. You can speak English to her."

So finally the daughter shows up and she was pretty rough - she's recently finished either chemo or an extended stay in a drug rehab facility... and she has this pervasive smell of fish about her... and she and the mother have extended conversations standing in the aisle while the daughter is taking off all her (normal Poland) layers... and then she embarks on this 10 minutes process - sits on the floor (instead of in the seat, god knows why!) removes her snow boots, adds some extra socks, and puts on some other boots.

And it's at this point that I realized why I prefer riding in First Class on trains.

Trip to Gdansk: Travel Day

Today was our travel day and our first night in Gdansk (Danzig).

I was up at 6am to shower, finish packing and have breakfast before making our way to the bus station for the first leg (to Warsaw). There's a taxi stop 1 block from our apt, and usually they're lined up in Volkwagens and BMWs waiting for customers... but this morning... nothing, nada, nyet, nie.... So we walked a few blocks through the park - me carrying my rollie bag where the snow is too deep to roll - and were able to flag down a cab in front of the cathedral. Seven zloty later, we're at the bus station with 10 minutes to spare.

We take a big coach from Radom to Warsaw on a major interstate highway, no biggie. Wait 90 minutes in a coffee shop, then 10 minutes on the platform because our train is late, and then we're on the train to Gdansk.

Why, L’Oreal? Why?

Why have one applicator head for the US product, and a different applicator head for the product I bought in Italy?  

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Road Trip!!

On Sunday I head out for another adventure in Poland.

The Polish state school system schedules a two week "Winter Break" in late January, early February during which time many families head to Polish, Austrian or Italian mountains for skiing. And as our language school follows this pattern, even though we've only been back from Christmas break 3.5 weeks, we get another long holiday now.

Deciding and planning has been hit-and-miss. First my roommate was very sick for weeks after returning from Christmas. Then we couldn't find public trans to the site we both really wanted to visit -- Wolf's Lair (Hitlers mountain compound where he hid out a lot during the war).

Finally the cosmos aligned auspiciously, everyone was well and thinking properly, we removed Wolf's Lair from the equation and almost overnight cobbled together a pretty cool tour of Polish sights unseen. Transport and accommodations seemed to fall into place magically -- all is right with the universe.

So I'll be sending updates from our trip. First stop, Gdańsk (pronounced gDainsk) - site of the shipyards that produced Solidarity, and Westerplatte, the initial battle of WWII in the invasion of Poland

It’s gonna be cold as a mofo, but with proper clothing and generous amounts of alcohol we will do all right!

If there's snow, it must not be global warming....

We’ve been having the kookiest weather!

One day last week when I got out of bed it was pouring rain and 36F.... Gale force winds started, and soon all the clouds were gone and the temperatures had dropped below 32F... we had half an hour of bright sun then it began to cloud up.

I had an early class, so I hopped in the shower and when I got out it was snowing - tiny little flakes, few and far between that swirled in the wind a long time before finally meeting death on the still pooling ground.

I left my house, walked down the block, turned right and was hit in the face by a blizzard. Huge wet flakes, falling so densely you could barely see through, blowing sideways into me. I walked the 8 blocks to my class and when I arrived I was the abominable snowman - my entire front side was coated with a thick layer of wet snow. It was piled up on the horizontal surfaces of my purse and backpack. And the office was locked.

I took off my coat and gloves in the unheated stairwell, and shook them and beat them to get the snow off.

My student arrived and we had no choice but to find someplace else to work, so we went to a sweet little coffee shop that has a fireplace where my things could dry out on a stool in the warmth.

Our class was 90 minutes, and during that session the snow slowed to a stop, the clouds blew away, and the sun came out so bright I had to shade my eyes when looking at my student.

By the end of the session, the sky was heavy with clouds again and on my walk home the snow started in earnest again. I had a half hour to wait before my pickup and during that time it snowed like hell, stopped, and the sun came out again. I’m told it repeated this cycle once again before sunset (which as we know is 4 pm at the latest).

I wouldn't know, because my experience is that though these towns I teach in are only 40-30 kilometers apart, they each have their own "climate pocket" (can't remember what this is called!). So as we headed north in the car we left the Radom "climate pocket". And within 20 kilometers we saw evidence that there had been no 36F rain to melt all the snow along the sides of the road, AND somehow the road in this pocket had become a sheet of ice. Traffic came to a stop and we inched along for about 2 kilometers, with trucks putting their right wheel onto the shoulder of the road to gain traction.

After we passed the glacier, new teacher / new driver Ania was so frazzled that when I jokingly said "You want me to drive?", she said "Yes!". So we stopped the car and, for the first time since September, I drove 15 kilometers to school. Thankfully we'd reached a weather pocket where nothing much was happening.

The next night, on the drive home, the snow was thick and blowing almost horizontally into the windshield. The driver Dominika said in her 30 years she'd never seen snow do this.

Everywhere I go the local people say "the weather is very strange these days". GW Deniers are fools.

Assassination in Gdańsk

We’re having a political moment in Poland right now because Paweł Adamowicz, the President (mayor) of Gdańsk, was murdered at a charity fundraiser last weekend - on camera.

All the students have been talking about it.

I’ll try to explain it as best as I can understand it, though this is limited by my students’ level of English. It is also slanted by the politically tinged perspective of my educated, well-traveled, and intellectually curious students and my own liberal worldview.

Some background about the players:

The ruling political party in Poland is called the Law and Justice party or PiS, which they pronounce as “peace” - ironic, as you’ll see. PiS is incredibly conservative and their platform is pro-nationalistic, Poland-for-Poles, let’s govern our country while adhering to old school Catholic values. They hate immigrants, gay rights, anything that stinks of the 21st century and progress beyond Pope_Pius_XII (who you may recall, treatied with Nazi Germany).

Like most of Europe, Poland has nationalized health, and the system has never been well funded by the government, so in 1993 Polish renaissance man and journalist Jerzy Owsiak founded the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity (WOŚP) to provide expensive modern equipment for hospitals throughout Poland. Children take to the streets collecting money, people who donate wear red hearts, and the equipment donated by the charity is marked with a red heart to show everyone where their effort and donations went. Visible on equipment in every hospital throughout the land. WOŚP is now the country’s largest non-government charity.

But not everyone loves WOŚP. The church's rival fundraising drive has proven less successful than the grassroots efforts of WOŚP. And founder Jerzy Owsiak's outspoken liberal politics has made him (and WOŚP) a target for right-wingers, government backers, PiS members of parliament and some Catholic clergy, who make "the ridiculous claim that it promotes low or decadent morality."

For 27 years WOŚP has held a nationwide celebration on a Sunday in January to cap off the fundraising and announce the total collected. It used to be carried on TVP (TV Poland, the government directed channel) like a Jerry Lewiski telethon, but the combination of the PiS government believing that Sunday is better spent attending church and having a Norman Rockwellski mama-made dinner than raising funds to provide modern hospital equipment for the future of the country, and the church being pissy that their charity is being overshadowed, caused TVP to stop carrying the fund raiser.

That has not stopped the local parties, held in larger cities to announce the take.

Paweł Adamowicz, the mayor of Gdańsk for over 20 years was a very popular liberal politician, supporting issues including gay rights and welcoming immigrants, and as such he was unpopular with PiS and nationalistic groups. He was one of 11 mayors in Poland who were issued of fake death certificates by a far-right group called All-Polish Youth after these mayors signed a declaration to welcome refugees, against the PiS government's anti-migration policies.

The murderer (or "assassin" as I've read some places, which really puts a political spin on this) Stefan W. is a 27-year-old schizophrenic who went off his meds (only need to watch 3 episodes of Law and Order to know what havoc this causes -- "but the meds don't allow me to feel anything," said every whiny murderer ever), got into trouble while chemical-free, and was sent to prison. Liberals speculate that, in order to survive in prison, he associated with a nationalistic group which indoctrinated him while protecting him. Further speculation is that his schizophrenia led him to believe that the mayor was actually responsible for his being in prison. He was released December 8, 2018.

Jump to last Sunday January 13, 2019, the day of the fundraiser, where in Gdańsk, as in dozens of cities throughout Poland, the mayor was in attendance at the party where charity results would be announced. Security must have been lax, because Stefan W was able to jump on the stage, stab Mayor Adamowicz, and then turn and address the crowd declaring his original innocence, before being taken into custody. There are many videos of the incident, but Stefan W maintains "it wasn't me".

Mayor Adamowicz was rushed to a hospital where he underwent surgery, and it was reported that the animosity towards WOŚP, and Jerzy Owsiak and Adamowicz's politics was so rabid "that one priest even announced that he would not pray for Adamowicz after he was attacked."

Mayor Adamowicz succumbed to his injuries on Monday. Gdańsk was thrown into a depression for their longtime mayor, with people asking "how could this happen here?". A liberal backlash ensued, blaming nationalist organizations in specific and PiS in general for this murder/assassination.

This was answered by the nationalist groups. "Polish media has reported incidents of threats against some liberal mayors", and the safety and even the lives of Jerzy Owsiak and his family. These threats were so credible that Owsiak publicly stepped down from his role as the leader of WOŚP "placing the blame on people who have threatened his foundation for years — with little reaction from the police. The criticism 'approaches the language of Nazism, of fascism, of threats,' Owsiak said."

At which point PiS (or should I say PeeWee Herman) weighed in, basically saying "I know you are, but what am I?" Their contention is that Owsiak, Adamowicz and other liberals foment hate (that is the word used) by their abominable left-leaning, fag-loving, immigrant-welcoming, shopping-on-Sunday politics.

And so that is where we are today in Poland. "Urban liberals and right-wing backers of the government get their news from different sources, socialize increasingly rarely, and have deeply divergent views of their country's place in Europe and the world. Social media has become a war zone — with anyone straying from the party line subjected to attack."

Sound like anyplace you know?

I tried really hard to capture all the links (below) to the articles I’ve shown in quotes -- this is NOT my intellectual property.

Talk about convenience!

Friday night purchase in a convenience store (higher prices than grocery store)...

Four 16.9 ounce kick ass beers

Half loaf of no-chemicals-added bread

$5.20

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